View Full Version : Prop and Rudder
03-19-2012, 10:59 AM
Anyone know where i can find stock rudder and prop sizes for 1987 Supra Saltare? Also where i can buy parts from?
How hard is it to change these?
03-19-2012, 11:48 AM
Bigger question is what size prop to go with? would be used for tubing and wakeboarding.
03-19-2012, 11:54 AM
you should really just call ACME or OJ and talk to them about it. They will be able to help you a whole lot!
03-19-2012, 01:05 PM
Prop size depends on a lot of variables... Better to call prop dealer and talk directly. They usually want to know altitude, what speed you are at at certain rpm's and a bunch of other stuff. For the rudder, I'd just go to or call skidim.com I think its about $300. You might ask them about prop too. I know they sell some.
03-20-2012, 10:39 AM
The rudders are fairly universal across all inboards. I put a NOS rudder assembly from the now defunct Gekko boats in my Salt. The bolt pattern on the flange was a little off but able to make it work without much problem. The hardest part for me was getting the bottom flange off the hull - 20 year old 5200 is tough stuff.
Props are another beast all together - lots of options depending on what you want. The stock on my Salt was a left hand, 13x13, 1" shaft. I went with an ACME 541 & seemed like a good choice the one time I've run it. Call the guys at ACME (very helpful to me), OJ, and Wakemakers & they can help make a selection.
03-22-2012, 01:03 AM
You might try calling Skier's Choice for the rudder. They were able to get me an original one for my 92 Mariah, they even overnight fedex'd it to me saving my 4th of july weekend. Then again, that was summer of 2003. Time does fly.
If you end up replacing the rudder box, here's a few tips for breaking the 5200 loose.
First, use a sharp utility knife to cut the bead of sealant around the box as deeply as you can. You can then use a guitar string as a saw if you can get it underneath the rudder box flange to cut as much of the sealant as you can. As far as breaking 5200'd fittings loose, I've found bludgeoning with heavy objects to be unproductive. The fitting just bounces away stretching the sealant and snaps right back. I've not done a rudder box, but on my strut a slow and steady prying with a large flatblade screwdriver can stretch the glue out enough to where it will eventually turn loose. Work your way around the fitting using a rag to protect the gelcoat from the screwdriver handle while your prying. Remember, slow and steady.
On, my boat the heads of the bolts holding the underwater running gear to the hull are a large flathead screw type. Obviously you use a socket and ratchet on the nuts on the inside of the boat but I had difficulty getting my largest flathead screwdriver to hold the bolt. I broke the largest flathead screwdriver socket sears had trying to hold the bolts. I finally ended up tracking down the local Snap-On tool truck driver and found what i needed. Its a flathead screwdriver socket that fits a 1/2" ratchet and it fits the slots in the bolt head perfectly. It was about the biggest one he had on his truck. He said it was made to adjust steering components on big rig trucks. I can get the part number if someone wants it.
You might consider pulling the fuel tank for the rudder work. I don't think its that hard to do on your year boat, and it would make the rudder work much easier. I worked underneath the tank to change the rudder on mine and my arms looked like i'd been attacked by a pack of feral cats on PCP. I think they took a whole month to heal.
Prop selection has been well covered in posts above.
Its late, signing off for now. Hit us back with any more specific questions you have.
03-22-2012, 09:34 AM
DKJ's right - slow steady pressure, not impact blows, to remove anything bonded with 5200. I had to remove both the rudder flange and strut from the hull. Used a straight razor blade to cut away as much of the old as possible and then to slice as deep as I could around the perimeter of the flange/hull joint. The strut wasn't as bad since there are places to gain leverage and pry. For the rudder flange, I added some heat to the flange with a propane torch on low, had somebody stand on the vertical barrel from inside the boat (the gas tank was out), and used a heavy putty knife to pry, pry, pry from all different angles.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.