View Full Version : Shower Install -- Aquatik (not homemade)
04-04-2010, 10:39 PM
Got the shower in over the weekend. I thought I was going to go with the
homemade one, but in the end, decided to buy it from Skidim.com instead, just
decided I wanted the cleaner fit/finish.
This was a time consuming job - not too hard, but a lot of things to do.
The instructions say 2-3 hours, I bet I have more like 5, all told.
First thing, I had to decide where I was going to put:
The mixing valves
I always knew I would put the hose in the "glove box" on the back of the boat
that is accessible from the swim platform, and I knew I would use the empty
"ACC" switch on the panel at the helm. Don't have any photos of running
the wires, or taking the switch panel out, as I didn't think to take them, but
it wasn't too hard.
First, I took out the "box" (we call it the pizza oven) that is under the small door I am going to put the hose into - normally this is used for helmet, gloves, etc.
I had decided to put the valves onto the passenger side, attached to the bottom of this box, and I knew it would be easier to attach it, and drill the hole for the hose with it out.
Now the hole for the hose to pass thru:
Then I had to tap into the line that provides hot water to the heater up front. This "tee" didn't come with the kit, all other parts did - but this one didn't -- they assume you don't have a heater, and just provide a brass barb
to screw into the block --
I also decided to attach the pump to the inside of the rear wall, on the inner
part of the engine bay - will be under the "pizza oven".
Out of images ... to be continued:
04-04-2010, 10:44 PM
Now that I have the hot water line in, it's time for the cold. Now I put the "tee" where I SHOULD have put the one for the fake-a-lake, now that I see there is room. This hose was a bugger to get out, not much room to work down there.
Getting the "tee" into this hose was also a "joy" -- even with soapy water inside the hose, and heating the hose up, it took a LOT of pressure and me and my 21 year old son about 10 minutes:
Back in place in the boat, with the cold water line attached:
Hot and cold lines to the mixing valve (not back in the boat yet) -- then
you have to cut the supply line that goes from the mixing valve to the pump,
and then to the actual "shower" head.
Box back in place, shower head attached (all the hoses are also now hooked
to the mixing valves)
To be continued:
04-04-2010, 10:48 PM
You can see the line going around to the pump (on the right) -- also into the mixing valve:
Here is how to use it:
Have not yet tested it ... ran out of time on EASTER doing this, and was called
back into the house for dinner and to play with the grandkids.
Will let you know if there were any issues. This has been on the wish list since
the boat was new.
My wife is ACTUALLY allergic to getting too cold (cold urticaria). This is a real condition
where she breaks out in hives, and it can be life threatening - but she's not giving
up the 'foiing. So - we fill her wetsuit with warm water before she goes out -- helps a lot, then she can also warm up after a ride with this.
She wears a drysuit this time of year - but they are a PAIN ...
Nice write up, I have the same shower installed on my '08. It works well, the temperature setting is a little sensitive, but once you get it dialed in it is great for warming up your wetsuit or just having a nice warm shower. The only problem with these is the motor has to be running in order to get the hot water out, if you shut off the engine it will quickly cool down. Standing on the platform with the motor running is really not healthy, even with the CAT ETX motors you still get a wiff of exhaust. Maybe if you have the FAE it would eliminate this.
Let us know how it works out for you.
04-22-2010, 06:13 AM
Thanks for the great photos and narration.
04-29-2010, 04:02 PM
I just did the same install on an 08 22SSV, but I documented the wiring process a little more.
It took me a bit of hunting around the boat to figure out the best way to route the power wire up to the empty accy switch on the dash. The best way is to fish it down the starboard side between the wall and hull. It will end up coming out right at the back of the switches and I was able to hook the wire up without pulling the switch panel. Here is the void I am talking about as seen from the rear starboard locker.
A closer up view.
You can start by removing the carpeted panel in your starboard rear locker that protects the gas lines coming in. Its only two screws and it will allow you to route the wire without laying on your back. I have the rear steps with the built in cooler in my 22SSV so this may not apply to a 22SSV with the bench all the way across the back.
Then you need a wire fishing tool and you basically start shoving it towards the front of the boat between the wall and the hull. Mine got hung up at about the starboard spotter seat. If you remove the seat cushion there you actually have access to the area where you are fishing the wire and you can help it along. You see in this picture where I am talking about, you can also see my wire after I fished it out and before I pulled it up tight.
Picture limit, continued in next post....
04-29-2010, 04:06 PM
Then just tape your wire on the end and pull it back through, I tied my wire off so I knew how much I could pull. Here it is pulled back to the starboard locker.
Here is a view looking from the front to the back, that light is sitting in the rear starboard locker. In this picture the back of the switch panel is directly to the right. All you need to do is buy the right connector for the end of the wire and put it on the open post on the back of the accy switch.
04-29-2010, 04:30 PM
As for the rest of the install, that was the easiest part.
I dont have the space behind my muffler like he did on his 24, so I mounted the pump to the inside of the panel that is at the front of the port rear locker.
Right across from where I mounted my pump was a main engine ground terminal that was nice and convenient to ground the pump to.
Again since my boat is shorter I didnt have as much room on the raw water intake hose from the hull to the v-drive, but I made it work. I removed the hose from the boat, cut out the section for the plastic tee and installed the short section from the intake elbow to the tee with a rubber mallet and some heat. I put it back into the boat and pushed the other section between the tee and the v-drive on by hand, using heat before every push. It took a lot of grunting and left me minus some skin!
I then took tg0824SSVGG's advice and tapped into the hot water hose coming off the block and going up to the heater. The only place I saw to tap into the block with the supplied hose barb is the drain plug that has a sensor mounted to it, I also didnt want to disconnect that sensor permanently. I didnt mount it in the exact same spot as it was tighter to work, so I tapped in farther up. You'll have to head to the hardware store as he says to buy the brass tee, the three threaded barbs and extra hose clamps you need to do this.
Then it was just a matter of running the hoses to all the right spots. I decided to mount my mixing valve vertically in the back of the port locker. I actually took it back out as I decided I liked the idea of having a switch back there instead of having to turn it on at the dash and using up the only empty switch. So I emailed Heatercraft and asked them if I could send back my S102 valve and pay the difference to upgrade to the 110S valve that has a switch on it. This option wasnt available when I bought mine off of skidim.com. They said no problem, so I shipped back my valve and am just waiting for them to receive it and ship me back the new one with the switch.
Once I put the mixing valve back in I'll be ready to test it.
Thanks for the tips and great pics tg0824SSVGG!
02-08-2011, 12:07 PM
it looked great in the 24ssv but i was sitting here trying to think....where would you be able to put the shower head in a 22ssv.not as nice as the big boy but still looks good and hey who wouldnt like to have a bit of hot water in the spring and fall.by the way where can i get this kit you were talking about instead of a home made version?And how much did it run?
02-08-2011, 07:38 PM
You may want to put the cold water supply after the impeller. It looks like you have it T'd in before the impeller.
1. Your motor will have to work harder as its working against the impeller. This will reduce pressure at your sprayer as well.
2. Unless there is a one way valve, the impeller will suck hot water out of you engine thru your mixing valve.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.