View Full Version : Wakeboard tower install questions
So I started working on installing the tower on the boat (88 Mariah) today. All along I had figured that the drivers side was going to be the pain in the butt mount point to get to. Well, I definitely had that wrong. After tearing into it, I found that it is the only mounting point I can actually easily get to. So now I am looking for some pointers from those who mounted their own towers.
Basically the only way I can see getting to the points I need to get to is by drilling some 4" holes; one behind the passenger side bow seat, and two behind the side panels where the speakers are mounted. It seems this is the only solution but I have no desire to drill a giant hole in my boat. So I am either looking for confirmation that this is how it has to be done or someone with 4' arms.
The tower I have has a pretty long stance, I think like 75" front to back stance. It is made by TL wake board towers and looks very similar to the Aerial Airborne tower.
04-06-2010, 10:35 PM
I had to do the same. I even had one predrilled from factory. It will not hurt anything. Just drink a beer and go for it. I used four inch holes but was tuff to get my arm through. It will work. I suggest making large backing plated out of 1/4 inch aluminum. I made mine about 4 by 8 inches to spread stress out on fiberglass. Not a rule just seemed to make sense while I was in there.
SI, Thanks for the reply, that is what I needed to hear. Bring on the Miller Light were drilling some holes:).
04-07-2010, 09:10 AM
Can you possibly put the holes where you could then fill them with an in-boat speaker?
REMEMBER to run the drill in REVERSE until you are thru the gelcoat ... otherwise you
will get chips and cracks that you don't want
thanks for the idea. Where I need to drill in the back side panels would be a perfect place for more 6" speakers.
Do you mean to run the hole saw in revers also?
04-07-2010, 07:34 PM
I cut the access holes with a rotozip tool . I then made a backer out of 3/4 plywood covered in fiberglass and epoxied it to the back side of the hole for added strength.
I reinstalled the cutouts screwing them to the backer board.
The aluminum backers were 1/8" thick I made new ones 1/4" thick . I also made 3/4'' plywood backer plates and epoxied them to the underside of the gunnels then the aluminum plates on top of the wood.
Make sure you countersink all the holes in the gelcoat to prevent stress cracks later.
04-07-2010, 08:35 PM
yes, run the hole saw -- or any drill bit in reverse, just thru the gel - then go forward.
Beware, most hole saws will loosen when run in reverse (unscrew on the arbor) -- just
watch for it - and keep it tight.
Michael, Thanks for the tips and the pics. Sweet danger cart in the background of the first pic:D
Thanks for the reply on the hole saw I will definitely keep an eye on it.
04-08-2010, 06:09 PM
Uhh Kip. Pics please.
I will be sure to post some pics soon. Hopefully next week will be install time.
04-09-2010, 07:47 PM
I put up a MT2 and mounted the front feet in front of the windshield inside the grab rail and for the backs, I used the rear speakers to get access.
04-12-2010, 01:37 PM
I put my base on this weekend. It was easy for me since the top is off. But, I did think about access to tighten up later or remove, if needed. There are a couple access areas that are already there. I might need to make them bigger. Definitely put in access wherever you need it.
Looking forward to your pics!
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