Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,311

    Default

    Don't forget the other area for adjustment is where the clamp block attaches to the steering tube on the rudder end of the cable. Turn your wheel lock-to-lock to find the center of travel, then rotate the shortest direction to get the shaft keyway where you need it and lock it down in that position. Then loosen the clamp block & allow the steering tube to move fore & aft as you manually center the rudder. That'll get you a straight wheel and straight rudder, but you may end up with too much differential travel in either direction depending on how far you have to rotate the hub to center the keyway.

    If so, you can pull the cable out of the helm (I'm assuming rotary?) and note the orientation of the hub when the cable is free, rotate the hub the desired amount to correct, and reinsert the cable. Could be a trial & error process, but another method. Drape some rags in the area - the helm end is a greasy mess.

    Good luck.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,240

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sybrmike View Post
    Don't forget the other area for adjustment is where the clamp block attaches to the steering tube on the rudder end of the cable. Turn your wheel lock-to-lock to find the center of travel, then rotate the shortest direction to get the shaft keyway where you need it and lock it down in that position. Then loosen the clamp block & allow the steering tube to move fore & aft as you manually center the rudder. That'll get you a straight wheel and straight rudder, but you may end up with too much differential travel in either direction depending on how far you have to rotate the hub to center the keyway.
    I feel like you're saying something real important here, but I'm not catching on to exactly what you're saying. I had the cable disconnected at the rudder. Turned the wheel lock to lock to find the center, adjusted the jam nuts on what I think you're calling the clamp block, and voila. I think the steering is the same, side to side, but the wheel is upside down. Here's the adjustment part that I think you're calling the clamp block.


    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,311

    Default

    Yep, if you loosen the jamb nuts on that steering (clamp) block, the steering tube will slide fore or aft while you hold the rudder straight and turn the wheel 180 degrees. Looks like you're near the end of your adjustment, so turn the wheel the direction that moves the steering tube aft in the steering block to better center the threaded section. Then lock down the jamb nuts in the new position. This will give you a straight rudder with the steering wheel right side up. Unfortunately, this method will also give you 1/2 turn difference (or is it 1/4 if you split the difference?) in rudder throw from one direction to the other. Probably not that big a deal.

    Otherwise you'll have to pull the cable from the helm & re-thread as previously stated to get the keyway just right.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,240

    Default

    I think I'm with you, and I think that's essentially what I did before. I was trying to go strictly for the same number of turns from lock to lock, but I might need to sacrifice a half turn to get the wheel right. I'm going to give it another whirl this weekend. Thanks for helping me talk this out.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,240

    Default

    Update: I've got it adjusted much better. The trick was removing the cable housing behind the steering wheel. I was originally adjusting the clamp block as you described, but just couldn't get it adjusted right with equal amounts of turn, and the wheel straight. By getting the clamp block more in the middle, and then pulling the cable housing off and turning the wheel straight, everything is looking much better. Thanks for the tip on adjusting it at the helm.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,311

    Default

    No problem - glad it worked out for you.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    McKinney, TX (the new Dallas)
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    Im fixing to do this fix, can you explain a lil better on how you did it?? Im not following?
    89' Comp rebuild thread:
    http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=8193

    89' Comp Mod's and fun pic's:
    http://www.supraboats.com/bbs/album.php?albumid=86

    89' Supra/Custom Tower & Interior/Swivel Racks
    4 Blade-14X14/1600 lbs Ballast
    Roswell Bar/Led's/Krypt 6.5 HLCD's/Krypt 4200 Eq
    JL-Kicker Amps 2000 Watts/Kicker Interiors/L7 Kicker Sub

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,240

    Default

    To better answer your question, what are you trying to fix?

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •