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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,331

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    Yep, if you loosen the jamb nuts on that steering (clamp) block, the steering tube will slide fore or aft while you hold the rudder straight and turn the wheel 180 degrees. Looks like you're near the end of your adjustment, so turn the wheel the direction that moves the steering tube aft in the steering block to better center the threaded section. Then lock down the jamb nuts in the new position. This will give you a straight rudder with the steering wheel right side up. Unfortunately, this method will also give you 1/2 turn difference (or is it 1/4 if you split the difference?) in rudder throw from one direction to the other. Probably not that big a deal.

    Otherwise you'll have to pull the cable from the helm & re-thread as previously stated to get the keyway just right.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,813

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    I think I'm with you, and I think that's essentially what I did before. I was trying to go strictly for the same number of turns from lock to lock, but I might need to sacrifice a half turn to get the wheel right. I'm going to give it another whirl this weekend. Thanks for helping me talk this out.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,813

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    Update: I've got it adjusted much better. The trick was removing the cable housing behind the steering wheel. I was originally adjusting the clamp block as you described, but just couldn't get it adjusted right with equal amounts of turn, and the wheel straight. By getting the clamp block more in the middle, and then pulling the cable housing off and turning the wheel straight, everything is looking much better. Thanks for the tip on adjusting it at the helm.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,331

    Default

    No problem - glad it worked out for you.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Back to Dallas!
    Posts
    1,833

    Default

    Im fixing to do this fix, can you explain a lil better on how you did it?? Im not following?
    89' Comp rebuild thread:
    http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=8193

    89' Comp Mod's and fun pic's:
    http://www.supraboats.com/bbs/album.php?albumid=86

    89' Supra/Custom Tower & Interior/Swivel Racks
    4 Blade-14X14/1600 lbs Ballast
    Roswell Bar/Led's/Krypt 6.5 HLCD's/Krypt 4200 Eq
    JL-Kicker Amps 2000 Watts/Kicker Interiors/L7 Kicker Sub

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,813

    Default

    To better answer your question, what are you trying to fix?

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Hello all,
    I've got a few strange things going on with the salt that I think pertain to this old thread. My problem is two-fold:
    1) there is more slop in the steering than there should be
    2) there is a "tight spot" in the travel right in the center

    These combine to make a pretty "darty" driving boat - rudder is stiff near the center, then free on either side of center, with a little cable slop to allow it to bias all the way to the other side of that slop, making small steering inputs near the center of travel impossible!

    I think what i have found is wear in the "Clamp Block" (pictured above), plus a bent rudder. I had the rudder out this spring for fresh seals and did some straightening of the previous bend, then I went and hit another rock..

    My question is: has anyone replaced this clamp block? SKIDIM has this part that looks like a suitable replacement:
    http://www.skidim.com/CLAMP-BLOCK-KI...tinfo/6301335/
    Korey Morris - 1986 Supra Saltare - PCM 454 - Lover of all things fast and loud

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