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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,307

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87SunSportMikeyD View Post
    Holy crap you are hard at work. Were you having trouble with your swim platform bolts?? May I ask: if the swim platform brackets leak, does that water enter the bilge? or does it enter the sealed stringer compartments?
    No trouble at all with the swim platform bolts. Just took platform off to restore. I am cleaning up the platform arms trying to make those look better.
    I had the platform issue over 10 years ago and that's how I came to meet Donny. He gave the thumbs up once again when the boat was torn apart a few years back doing the stringers.
    If they do leak however, he left the stringers notched at the rear so water will drain out. No sealed compartments on mine.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,315

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    The wood's looking great - hope it lasts a good long time for you after all that effort, but I do hear good things about that Cetol. I jut finished the 9 pieces of teak left on my boat using the progressive turpentine/oil method. Really soaked it up again & looks like hand rubbed finish, but if it doesn't last long I'll be using Cetol next time...
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Topeka, KS
    Posts
    42

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    Man, teak sure looks amazing when you take the time to do it right. Can't honestly say i miss having 50 pieces on my boat though :P I hope that finish holds up for years to come! If not, its definitely not for lack of time and effort. Hope you disconnect power to that garage door so someone doesn't accidentally knock everything on the floor!
    Daniel

    '91 SunSport 10th Anniversary - "The White Whale"
    http://www.supraboats.com/bbs/showth...ersary-Edition

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,307

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    Well, 4 or 5 weekends later and my teak is finally done. 32 hours +/- a few invested up to now on bringing the teak back from the dead.
    I sanded, cleaned, 1st coat Cetol, 2nd coat Cetol, sanded with nylon pad, cleaned, 3rd coat Cetol, very light sand again nylon pad, cleaned, 4th coat Cetol. All 50 some odd pieces on all 4 sides.

    The swim deck has been sanded, cleaned, brightened, cleaned again, oiled, oiled, oiled, oiled and oiled again. Yes, five coats. Kept soaking it up. Close to two full bottles.

    So I went to put the teak back on and I had purchased last year over $100 worth of all new stainless screws to replace the old but problem is I have lost the bag with the shuffling between old and new garages. If I go buy new, I know tomorrow I will find that bag. If I keep looking, I keep delaying my time on the water, but save a few dollars.


    Here it is all laid out. Swim deck with oil, the rest with Cetol and how it looked before I started.

    The hand rails. Love how they turned out.

    Passenger hand rail...just showing Cetol finish vs. oil finish.

    Engine cover pieces ready to go back on.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,307

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    So I bought this piece of teak a few weeks back. Ending up spending $134.00 just to fix several sections. I debated long and hard on splicing in Ipe or Mahogany but just didn't think it would look right. I had a carpenter friend of mine who was going to take care of it, but he has blown me off due to work obligations. So, I called up another friend of mine who is a master carpenter and he is too busy. I just had taken every piece of my shop upstairs to store it as the POD was costing me a monthly fee. I stacked it all in one section. I can't even get to my tablesaw at the moment and who knows where my router is. So I placed a few calls today to several builders of mine asking for some help to see if I can get this cut and ready to go back on my swim platform. Maybe I'll just screw it on like it is.


    Right side...new teak, only length I could get so I paid extra. He did drop it down a few dollars a foot to help me out.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,307

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    When I re-did the upholstery, they used a hinge that I came to loathe after several seasons of use. First, it way too high and when you went to pull yourself out of the water and grab the handrail, it would pinch any and all fingers. Secondly, it was too high and screwed in at the very top of the cap which was cracking my gelcoat which didn't make for a sound install. Thirdly, it was in the center of the sun deck and when opened, wobbled back and forth since it didn't have much width underneath to support the load. I found some similar to the originals in stainless steel. Not made for a Supra, so slightly bent at different angle.
    I was wondering if you think I could bend that more straight towards 90 degrees like the huge one? It is pretty tough so I don't know if I need someone with a machine or not that could do it without damaging the properties of the stainless steel or affecting the strength. Opinions?


    Getting it back from the upholsterer, you can see how it looks.

    Here it is above the handrail. Not good for fingers or for looks. You could see the screws almost.

    You can see the stainless are much larger underneath the deck for support.

    Here is the problem. Not the same angle and wondering if I can fix easily.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    159

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    Take the hinge to a heating & cooling (HVAC) guy. He will have the right tool for the job. It will only take him second.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,315

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    You're not gonna hurt the stainless steel by bending it the rest of the way to 90 degrees. Wrap the flange in a cloth to protect the finish & put it in a vise then use a mallet on a wooden block to bend it over across the length.

    btw - the wood looks great!
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,249

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    Gorgeous, high quality work on the teak. Just like everything you've done. Congrats. Hoping to see it in person this summer at our Supra get-together.

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    1,473

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    Ngavdba question:

    You said you used a Nylon pad to lightly sand the wood after before coat 3 and then again lightly before coat 4. Can you explain the Nylon pad or am I just missing something? Like a scrub brush type pad?

    That wood looks amazing, and you've helped me decide to do mine in the same color. I think that original color would really be gorgeous.

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