Added another LED

[ngavdba]

Ngavdba question:

You said you used a Nylon pad to lightly sand the wood after before coat 3 and then again lightly before coat 4. Can you explain the Nylon pad or am I just missing something? Like a scrub brush type pad?

Thanks for the comments guys. The teak turned out much better than I expected. Unfortunately, I was down with my back this weekend and could not work on my boat at all. I'm anxious to put it back together at some point.

Haugy,
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...gl7TBD12ZDNTbl

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRM-7447/
This where I got them since they're local.

I bought a 20 pack and only used two which I rinsed for re-use. If you want some, PM your address and I can mail you a few. I will not use them that often and surely don't need 20 sitting on the shelve till the next painting project.

[haugy]

Okay, so you light sanded it clean so to speak then used 216 Special Thinner to clean it, and then the Cetol process?

My teak is already very clean, so I'm thinking I could use the 216 just to make sure it's got a good clean surface, then the Cetol. Thoughts?

How much wait time did you give between coats?

[ngavdba]

Okay, so you light sanded it clean so to speak then used 216 Special Thinner to clean it, and then the Cetol process?

My teak is already very clean, so I'm thinking I could use the 216 just to make sure it's got a good clean surface, then the Cetol. Thoughts?

How much wait time did you give between coats?

I started with 216 before the first coat after I had sanded and cleaned the teak initially. They recommended 3 coats, sand if you want to, then add a fourth coat.
After 2 coats my teak felt a little gritty so I sanded between the 2nd and 3rd coat cleaning with 216 of course prior to any coat.
After the 3rd coat, I gave it a quick light sand once more for the hell of it. I didn't go at it as hard with the nylon as I did after the 2nd coat.
Cleaned again with 216 and then 4th and final coat.

I could only get to work on mine on the weekends since it took well over 3 hours per coat with the amount of teak I have. Once you get started, the Cetol sets up pretty quickly so have everything laid out and ready to go. You must wait at least 24 hours in between coats, but some of my pieces were still tacky I felt after 24 hours. Anyway,
I had a week between coats and that was more than enough. Keep a wet end on the teak and just go with the grain. Cetol is a very easy product to use and it only ran in a couple of spots where the screw holes are. I sanded it out and did a spot touch up.

Falling in love with my teak all over again and I hope it holds up well to the elements.

[haugy]

I started with 216 before the first coat after I had sanded and cleaned the teak initially. They recommended 3 coats, sand if you want to, then add a fourth coat.
After 2 coats my teak felt a little gritty so I sanded between the 2nd and 3rd coat cleaning with 216 of course prior to any coat.
After the 3rd coat, I gave it a quick light sand once more for the hell of it. I didn't go at it as hard with the nylon as I did after the 2nd coat.
Cleaned again with 216 and then 4th and final coat.

I could only get to work on mine on the weekends since it took well over 3 hours per coat with the amount of teak I have. Once you get started, the Cetol sets up pretty quickly so have everything laid out and ready to go. You must wait at least 24 hours in between coats, but some of my pieces were still tacky I felt after 24 hours. Anyway,
I had a week between coats and that was more than enough. Keep a wet end on the teak and just go with the grain. Cetol is a very easy product to use and it only ran in a couple of spots where the screw holes are. I sanded it out and did a spot touch up.

Falling in love with my teak all over again and I hope it holds up well to the elements.

Thanks for the tips. One last question, you stated you did the 216 between coats. Is that just for if you sand? Or for every coat, clean with 216 before?

I've only got two side steps, and the engine hatch, so I don't have nearly as much as you. I'm going to try to start mine this weekend, and jump back to it in between other projects.

[ngavdba]

Just posted some of these on June pics but if anyone ever reads this post again they can see the results. Title of thread went from LED to teak. Will update with pics of LEDs once I finally get to use them.

[ngavdba]

A few more to finish out the teak pics on this thread.

[TitanTn]

I always enjoy looking at you and Clint's pics. Beautiful boat, and great job on the teak.

[Sdc77]

It looks more new than a brand new boat ! Amazing job

[ngavdba]

Finally got out to the lake to check out the new LEDs I installed earlier in this thread. Got quite a few compliments once I flipped the switch on at dusk. I heard a kid tell his dad that is what we should do. "Why don't we have those daddy?" Another fisherman said if he could figure out a way to put them on his Triton he would.
So here is a few pics to showcase VisionX Subaqua. The Subaqua uses 3 watt LEDs for a 720 lumen light output, equivalent to a 100 watt halogen bulb.



Pic taken with flash.

Pic taken without flash.

[ngavdba]

Added another LED light is right. Actually, I added 13 new LED lights. After trying to get on the road last week before being stopped by a thunderstorm, I noticed my old trailer lights weren't working too well. I had shorting issues last year as well. So I went to work that night taking off the old crappy lights (none were original and only two were LED) and scrapping the old wiring. I did a major overhaul.
I ran over to Northern (sucky place but only option) and grabbed some nice low profile LED lights. Each unit is sealed and has separate ground.
Then I started the 6-7 hour marathon of running all new wiring, drilling new holes for every light, and properly grounding each unit. I had to pre-drill each hole...2 for the lights and 1 hole for the ground as I used self tapping screws. The old steel on this trailer is pretty thick in spots and hard as crap to get through. I busted knuckles as well as breaking 3 bits. I used heat shrink connecters to finish it all out. Worked great on the first trip out and looked great as well.


I added an additional two lights to the required three per DOT specs. I left equal spacing so if I decide to add two more, I can completely light up the bottom of the boat.

Heading home. Added additional yellow markers near tongue for the hell of it.