Wet Sanding?..... I need it. :S

[wiatowski]

Well if there is one thing about me I can admit when I'm wrong... sort of. So I brought the Sunsport home today Yah! I got out the buffer and the Buff Magic... nothing... am thinking maybe the wax that had been put on over top of the oxidization, might be the cause of my troubles but I decided to to try wetsanding the bottom corner to see how it would turn out. So I wet sanded.. used buff magic compond, and then put some polish on. Now I want to do the whole boat. So the question I have to those who have done the wet sanding is;

1. Can I use an electric or air rotary sander on the big parts?
2. Do I need to sand it twice or can I use 320 (which I used today) and then buff it? or do I need to do 320 then 600 then buff? or can I just use 600?
3. Should I take off the decals and put new ones on when I'm done?

Thanks all.

By the way I still like the Buff Magic and it did wonders on my Bayliner... was wondering if maybe the gelcoat is softer or if had never had wax on it. Comment on this if you wish.
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[Nobodyrides4Free]

Don't think you need to wet sand, rubbing compound should do the trick. Not sure whats in the Buff Magic, it may be just a mild buffing wax or polish. Go to auto parts or car paint store and get rubbing compound. You will need a good buffing pad to put on a drill or buffer. I would try this first before wet sanding, rubbing compound should take off oxidation. Be careful on sharp 90 degree corners and other pronouced areas. You can put a piece of making tape over those areas, then hand rub later after main body is done. Used to work at a large body shop. Hope it works out for you.

[whelchel86]

I think 320 is a bit too aggressive to be using on there. I just started the wet sanding process on mine yesterday. Used 800, 1000, and 1500 then compound, polish, and wax. All 3M products except the harbor freight polisher/buffer. I have only done the transom so far but it looks great. 2012-03-27_18-32-42_476.jpg

[a_deleon]

Welch is right about 320 being a course grit. Hit up an auto parts store but best if a paint store and grab wet sand paper along with a wet sand block. This is your best bet if you never wetsanded with a sander, and keeps you from sanding through the color. 800 is a good starting point to do a little sanding with. Jump to 1000 then 1500 and maybe 3000 if you want little bit of buffing. Some heavy cut rubbing compound will work great also to bring it out and not need to much wetsanding. Don't forget to grab polish and use it after you buff with rubbing compound. Grab you a harbor freight 7in buffer and buffing pads from the store to use. The variable speed on the buffer works grab to use low rpms to work the stuff in and crank it up to start buffing. Keep a spray bottle with water next to you to keep spraying a little water as you sand.

[wiatowski]

I think 320 is a bit too aggressive to be using on there. I just started the wet sanding process on mine yesterday. Used 800, 1000, and 1500 then compound, polish, and wax. All 3M products except the harbor freight polisher/buffer. I have only done the transom so far but it looks great. 2012-03-27_18-32-42_476.jpg

Looks good. How did you sand the little details? (around everything)

Should I keep the Decals?

[ngavdba]

Looks good. How did you sand the little details? (around everything)

Should I keep the Decals?

Decals look gone to me, plus once you wet sand and Gelcoat is pretty...those decals will be an eyesore. Mine had to go, then replaced. Photo document them well and I'm sure a vinyl guy can duplicate if you decide to replace. 99% on here don't put them back on. I'm the other one percent.
Please don't use 320 grit . Gelcoat is thin and you could burn right through to the fiberglass. Use Whelchel's advise. I've done a few rough spots on mine using the same technique and it came out beautifully. Keep the paper and boat wet, wet, wet for best results while sanding. I've used the 3M compound and Presta polish then buffed with wool pads, and finished with a good wax. Tedious and time consuming but listen to all these guys on here that have done it before. In due time, it wll be gorgeous.

[whelchel86]

For the small detail work I used a small flexible sanding block/pad and just my fingers in some cases.

[csl]

I would agree with welch. You will have a hard time getting 320 grit marks out. Sanded mine this winter and turned out great. Used 1000 grit then compounded with Presta products
and polished. I wouldn't use any grit under 1000
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[chrisk]

I think everyone's responses on here are valid, and I think there's a million ways of doing this. So, here's a before and after of my project last fall... I did 600, 800, 1200, rubbing compound, polishing compound, and wax.

[Hagman]

I like to start by removing the water spots with auto magic water spot remover number 600. You will be amazed at what comes off, all the water spots just rinse away with just a small amount of rubbing. . You’ll need to keep it off of the aluminum and wear gloves. Start with area’s about 2 foot by 3 foot at a time. Then rinse thoroughly with water. Towel dry and move on to the next spot . I found that the water spots are harder than fiberglass. It speeds up the process by getting rid of them first. I also use this product one or twice a year just before waxing. Auto detail shops use this product all the time to remove water spots from paint and glass. I wouldn’t recommend a novice using it on there glass.
Most all of the water spots on the side of Chrisk’s black boat would probably rinse away in less than 30 minutes.
Keep up the good work. That red boats going to look really hot on the water summer while you’re cruising the dock looking to pick up checks.