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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,149

    Default Help Haugy with his amp setup

    God I hate stereo crap. So necessary, but I fawking hate it.

    I've got two amps to run, speakers and sub. I've got dual batteries, with a perko switch.

    Now here are my questions:

    1) My batteries currently share a ground. One battery ground to the other battery's ground, and then the boat ground. 5ft apart. Is this okay for this setup?

    2) For power, I'm going to go with 0/1 gauge from the batteries to the perko, and then from the perko to a power distribution block for the amps. From there I'd like to keep running 0/1 guage (if I buy it in bulk). Will that work or do I need to go to 2 or 4-gauge. The amps call for 4-gauge max.

    3) I'm thinking I need to put a fuse right off the battery, before the perko switch. But am not sure how big. A syn-6, and a Syn-1, plus the boat pull.

    4) Where in the hell can you mount two amps in a Saltare? I barely have enough room for a Syn-6.


    Am I thinking of doing this right? Or should I go about this a different way? I'm stereo stupid, won't hurt my feelings.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,331

    Default

    I'm no stereo expert by any means and the stereo's not even hooked up yet, but here's what I've done so far in completely rewiring and cramming a bunch of extra crap into my Salt. I'm running a VSR and dual circuit on-off switch, so my setup's a little different than 2 batts on a single Perko.

    1 - I think you should be good on the ground. The neg of my stereo battery is connected to the neg of the main battery via a "flag" tee terminal terminal connecter & then a single wire to the engine ground. A separate ground comes off of the stereo neg via another tee terminal that'll run to the distribution blocks for all the stereo gear.
    2 - While bigger's better, I don't think it's always necessary. I'm not familiar with the SYN amps, but you might run into problems trying to terminate too large a wire into a connector that the SYN's will accept. Add up the amp loads (total the fuses on the amps) & size the wire for current and distance (I found several sizing guides via google).
    3 - Pretty sure reading current USCG regs call for a fuse/breaker as close to the batteries as possible, however I skipped it (ro room, shame on me). I kept the original engine breaker & added separate breakers for each extra component I added (trim actuators, ballast pumps, etc.), plus the stereo amps are double fused (onboard & built into the distribution blocks). I figure a 23 year old boat is grandfathered. Again, just add the amp loads & about 30 amps of boat load & go with the next standard size.
    4 - Yeah, for a such a big girl, there's not much storage in the stock set-up. Port storage pod would be my first choice, otherwise there's room below the storage pod & down below the helm. My amps are even a little physically larger than the SYN-6 and -1, but my preliminarialy layout had them in the port storage pod - 6 channel on the far port wall and the 4 channel on the port bow seat back. However I ran out of room once I mounted a VSR, switch, and on-board charger in the port storage. I ended up making an amp rack that mounts on the starboard side down by the driver's feet.

    Good luck!
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    1,616

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by haugy View Post
    God I hate stereo crap. So necessary, but I fawking hate it.

    I've got two amps to run, speakers and sub. I've got dual batteries, with a perko switch.

    Now here are my questions:

    1) My batteries currently share a ground. One battery ground to the other battery's ground, and then the boat ground. 5ft apart. Is this okay for this setup?

    2) For power, I'm going to go with 0/1 gauge from the batteries to the perko, and then from the perko to a power distribution block for the amps. From there I'd like to keep running 0/1 guage (if I buy it in bulk). Will that work or do I need to go to 2 or 4-gauge. The amps call for 4-gauge max.

    3) I'm thinking I need to put a fuse right off the battery, before the perko switch. But am not sure how big. A syn-6, and a Syn-1, plus the boat pull.

    4) Where in the hell can you mount two amps in a Saltare? I barely have enough room for a Syn-6.

    5) I'm just going to drop it off at JonyB's place and let him sort it out instead.

    Am I thinking of doing this right? Or should I go about this a different way? I'm stereo stupid, won't hurt my feelings.
    Gave you another option there Haugy...
    '86 Comp TS6M
    Monster Tower
    Riding Connelly Skis and Hyperlite Boards

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,185

    Default

    sybr had a great response. I would add that I sized based on what my amps were recommended to have. I also looked up some load and cable sizes to figure out what to get and bought all mine from www.genuinedealz.com. IIRC I have 4 gauge running to my biggest amp (tower speakers) and 8 gauge running to the two smaller amps (in boats and sub). They all go to distribution blocks and to the battery from there. Wire to the battery from the distribution blocks is 2 gauge. I kept power and ground the same size.

    I'm not sure if you remember, but when I did my rebuild, I cut the floor out of that port storage area and some of the back wall so it was opened up below. My batteries sit there with a short run to the amps which are mounted on the fore and aft walls of that storage unit.

    Here are some pictures that may help.








  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,185

    Default

    One more pic...


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,321

    Default

    No reason to spend the money (or effort) of 0/1 to the amps. Run 0/1 to the distribution block and then 4 gauge to the amps. The amps won't accept larger, anyway. Put a big-ass barrel fuse as close to the perko switch as possible. Make sure to run the same gauge for both power and ground (obviously.)

    My amps are mounted in the storage space under the glovebox. It's an inelegant solution (it's been on my list for 5 years to build a better amp rack. Right now mine are just screwed on 3 different angles of that compartment and a half-birdsnest of wires connecting them. It's awful, but it works. It's dry and it's out of sight. No other place on this boat has both of those luxuries.

    When I bought my boat there was 4 amps mounted to the bottom side of the ski locker lid. Surprisingly, they stayed dry. Not surprisingly, they didn't like running upside down.
    1987 Supra Saltare

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,149

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jetlink View Post
    Gave you another option there Haugy...
    While normally I would, time is not on my side. Not to mention the fact that towing that big SOB up there would cost me almost $250 in fuel. Plus JonyB's eating expenses. Have you seen that boy? He can eat!

    Thanks for the tips and pics guys. Here's the plan I'm going to go with (per JonyB of course).

    Re-run 0/1 gauge wire for the batteries. Run 0/1 gauge from the perko to the distribution block. From the block it will be 4-gauge to the amps. Same for the grounds. Fuse will be an inline fuse on the distribution block right off the perko switch. One fuse per amp.

    I'm going to try and get both amps in the top left locker. My god, I'm a little guy, but I don't know how I'm going to get in there. The funny thing is me thinking about JonyB doing my Mariah, and him squeezing in there with his big muscles and crap. That had to be interesting.

    I'll take pictures once I get working on it. Thanks for the tips and pics. Y'all have some nice setups!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,180

    Default

    Uuuh, squeezing in? I reminded Brian of that the other day. He laughed because he had to pull me out. I got stuck Got the job done though.... On time, and accident/error free

    Did I mention you get to buy me lunch Friday when I drop of the amp and parts? Betta save yo moneyz.

    Power: 1/0 from the stud on the perko to a Stinger ANL fuseholder. 2 4 gauge outs to go to amps.
    Ground: 1/0 from each battery to a single distribution block (accepts 2 1/0 inputs), 4 gauge from that to the amps.

    When he's not looking I'm gonna run a wire from the spark plug to the drivers seat.
    07 Launch 24SSV Gravity Games
    My Install Gallery

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,185

    Default

    Look forward to seeing the pics haugy. If I lived closer I'd bring over one of my boys and help ya. They were both a big help giving me extra hands up in that compartment.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,331

    Default

    You might try taking the compartment door and trim ring off before wedging yourself into the storage pod. I think you've got black plastic vs. the teak on mine, but the extra inch or so I gained with mine removed (just a few screws) was quite welcome. I also had my glovebox out which helped as well.

    I got stuck the other night - crawled upside down through the playpen, halfway into the area under the storage pod trying to connect the new blower hoses. When you're alone in the garage, no one can hear you scream...
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

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