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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Cookeville, TN (between Center Hill and Dale Hollow)
    Posts
    332

    Default Stereo advice needed

    Ok, I know some of you are experts in this area. My problem is this....

    I have changed out all of my stock Kenwood speakers out to the Polk db651s.
    I have a total of 6 cabins, 4 tower, & 10" polk sub. I have a single battery setup with only a single Kenwood amp (stock setup from 2005). I really feel like I'm way underpowering these speakers to push them to their limits. I also think a dual batt setup is the way to go. So, the real problem is that I'm clueless about this stuff.

    I'm thinking I'd like to amp it out (whatever that takes) to get the power I need. Then I can listen to it, knowing it is properly powered. If I don't like it (comparing it to a buddies fully decked out Exile system), then I'd like to switch the towers out to Wetsounds or Exile (I'm leaning more toward the WS though), and leave the cabins as Polks for now. So, I also want enough power for the WS potential if the change is made. Oh, and I don't want to sink a ton of cash in it right now. Thats why I want to give the Polks a good go first. The Polks are already way better than the stock Kenwoods and I know they aren't going to be as good as the Exiles or Wetsounds but I want more than I have now.

    Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    160

    Default

    I would dump that Kenwood amp too. I have three Memphis Marine amps and am very happy that I got rid of the stock amp. I first started by just using regular car stereo amps, but they all failed. I know there are a lot of wetsounds users around here too.
    2011 Malibu Wakesetter 247LSV

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    McKinney Texas
    Posts
    466

    Default

    Any way you look at it, the more power you have the better. You don't have to crank the amp to the max if its too much. But if you aren't feeding your system the power it needs, you will never get the sound you want. Look at it this way..... you get more from crappy speakers with a lot of clean power than you ever will with great speakers and not enough power. Everything just runs better. You will be surprised what you can do with the right amp.

    For what its worth, I have been researching a lot of speakers lately and I'm pretty convinced that Wet Sounds are the way to go. My plan is to go with a 3some or double up. Should be pulling the trigger asap.

    Check with JonyB for help with audio equipment. He has given me lots of advise and is a pretty cool guy. I'm sure he can get you set up with what you need. Or at least point you in the right direction.
    -----------------------

    2004 Supra Launch SS

    Acme 913 prop, WS 420, Kicker L5 sub, JL/Kicker amps, Kicker in boats, Polk mm in roswell bar, 3000# ballast.

    "Never underestimate a man that Overestimates himself."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,005

    Default

    you should add a switch and a dual sensing acr/vsr(automatic charging relay/voltage sensing regulator)
    http://www.supraboats.com/bbs/album....&pictureid=737
    bep marine and blue sea are two
    2009 21v Worlds 340 Cat
    run your engine after you change the oil
    Doug

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,180

    Default

    The first step is a WS-420 as a line-driver and to control the tower speakers independently from the cabin speakers.

    cmtaylor said the more power you have, the better. That is the best statement to go by. Less distortion comes with more power.

    Dump the Kenwood? Yes. Mine had 2 from the factory and when they were removed and replaced with something else it was a huge difference. I think at SC they just throw some stuff in the boat.

    More than likely some of your speakers are powered from the radio. Putting an amp on them will make a huge difference.

    What you need for amps is 1 channel for the sub, 4 channels for the 6 in-boats (assuming they're all 4 ohm), and another 2 channels (at least) for the towers (again, assuming they're 4 ohm). If you plan to upgrade the tower speakers, then I suggest you buy amps that will do the job then, and not just something "to get you by".

    It's important to know your budget on all of this. That way whomever you choose to help you with your choices can find the right equipment for what you'd like to spend. Don't half-fast it though. If you try to cheap out on something and you're not happy, you'll end up spending more money in the long run.

    Check with your local car audio shops. Preferably the little guys like the mom and pops shops. If you have a good one (and their aren't many left), then you'll be steered in the right direction. If you do that, then come back here and let us know what they recommend and what their rates are. Between David, Brian, and I, maybe we can help you to get through it.

    For batteries, you really need a second one if you plan to upgrade the amps. The stereo battery needs a good reserve time so you can play all day, then a good on-board charger/maintainer to go with it. I always use Stinger batteries in my installs. Lots of people have different opinions on how to do this. I overkill on battery power.

    Good luck!
    07 Launch 24SSV Gravity Games
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Cookeville, TN (between Center Hill and Dale Hollow)
    Posts
    332

    Default

    So, would 2- Syn4 Amps, the ws420 and a dual batt setup cover it? Yes, the Polks are 4ohms. Thanks again.
    Last edited by ssmith; 02-07-2010 at 03:47 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,005

    Default

    also depending which engine you have you could upgrade your alternator, to maximize on water battery recharging, the 325 has a 70 amp where as the 340 has a 90 amp
    2009 21v Worlds 340 Cat
    run your engine after you change the oil
    Doug

  8. #8

    Default

    ssmith, give the polks the correct amount of power and you'll be very happy with them. I have six of the Polk MoMo's in cabin and four JBL P963's up top, and while they are not HCLD's they do very well with the right amount of power as well. I'm running a Kicker ZX700.5 for the cabins and the Memphis 10" sub and a Kicker ZX650.4 for the tower setup. The Kickers have been reliable with no issues at all. I also run a Blu Sea Systems 7610 ACR dual battery setup (shows old amp in pic) and it also has had no issues. All of this was done for about $1000 total, but then i did all the work too so no labor was involved.
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    '07 Moomba Mobius LSV

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,180

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ssmith View Post
    So, would 2- Syn4 Amps, the ws420 and a dual batt setup cover it? Yes, the Polks are 4ohms. Thanks again.
    For what you have now, I'd recommend a Syn6 for everything in the boat, and a Syn4 for the towers. You can upgrade to the Exile's or 4 WS cans in the future and still be good with the Syn4.

    Another option would be a Syn1 and Syn4 instead of the 6. That would give you a lot more power for the sub, and you could change it out to something really beefy, like the 12" XXX.

    Exile also has some amps and I've seen some good reviews on them, but I haven't seen or heard them for myself, nor have I seen pricing, so I can't say a whole lot about them just yet.

    The Kicker amps like Razzman have are decent, but they have an un-regulated power supply, so they draw a lot of current. I had the ZX series amps in my Baja a few years ago. They were okay, but got really hot and were pretty hard on the battery.

    A dual battery setup IMO is required if you have a bigger stereo. And not just a marine battery. I'd recommend a Kinetic or Stinger battery. Some people install the 6V golf cart batteries and I'm sure that works well, but I always use the dry-cell batteries because I've seen what can happen to batteries if you have an accident. 1 of my first Baja's took an unexpected jump and the nose went straight up. The Stinger SP1700 in the case next to the transom came out of the case, hit the bottom of the engine hatch, and crashed down onto the stringers. It survived. Dented the crap out of the fiberglass, but the battery made it through with only a few scratches.
    07 Launch 24SSV Gravity Games
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    syracuse Indiana
    Posts
    425

    Default

    JonyB seems pretty knowledgable concerning the stereo upgrades. I agree with adding an additional battery. I install a groupe 31 for our installed systems. I also insist on installing a Battery isolator system to charge both battery's while the engine is running. The stereo battery will not drain the cranking battery with this type of install. You can go one further with a dual battery selector switch also. This will allow you to turn off the battery's if needed. Al

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